19 February 2014

LFW | AW14 | Central Saint Martins MA Show

Drew Henry (right) & Serena Gili
Graham Fan 
Ondrej Adamek (left) & Anita Hirlekar
Fiona Blakeman
Michael Power
Michael Power
Every September sees a fresh crop of talented young designers enter onto the prestigious MA Fashion design course at Central Saint Martins. What with each designer being handpicked by Louise Wilson, the course is notably one of the most desired, yet hardest, design courses to get on to in the world. After 18 months of disciplined nurture, early mornings and long nights, a select few designers are selected to show at London Fashion Week. 

This season unveiled one of the design school's greatest shows to date. 11 students showed but standout collections came from Drew Henry and Serena Gili, both of whom were announced as ones to watch after their Central Saint Martins BA collection show. Henry drew focus to sharp tailoring and boxy silhouettes with a brave incorporation of goat hide gloves and shoes. Gili's collection seemed most complicated on first glance; delicate glass beaded vests sat upon random slithers of fur, tapping against moulded acrylic bell-shaped skirts as the models walked the catwalk, indicating the stellar craftsmanship of the designer.

The L'Oreal Professional Creative award was presented to not one but two students this time around. Ondrej Adamek's bright bursts of hoards fabric cut into petal shapes, which resembled floating clouds following the models down the catwalk, were a hit with British designer Christopher Kane, who judged the award this year. The star alumni also took a shine to Michael Power, whose designs featured intricate channels of beading on a delicate tulle fabric, accessorised with dangling loops of beads, gauzy headpieces and solid futuristic black stomping boots. 

I am usually drawn to things which are very graphic, and exude a lot of energy.” Power explained. “I still can't get my head around it - there were some amazing collections on that catwalk, and to be picked as one of the best still feels slightly surreal.”
pinkschmink said...

I thought this show was so interesting - I think it's perhaps that those showing are mostly textiles for fashion students which means the pieces are not necessarily finished, wearable creations but demonstrations of a concept. I think this year's crop are going to go far.

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